Those of you who follow along with the latest pattern releases will have no doubt spotted the Friday Pattern Company Wilder Gown this summer. It surprised me as a pattern that was not my usual style - it’s a floaty, almost maxi dress - but, nevertheless, it called to me. I tried to resist this pattern (thinking that it would end us as an unworn make) but I eventually caved, as I just had to make the gown. Anyway, today’s blog post isn’t about the dress… it’s about the top version. What’s great about the Wilder pattern is that it is actually really customisable. The pattern is designed that way to encourage you to make the version that has the elements that you want. So, included in the pattern is a top and this is the make that I’m sharing in this blog post.
I’ve recently begun to widen the type of fabrics that I use. As a fairly new sewist (I’m a couple of years into dressmaking now…) I stuck to woven cottons for shirts and dresses because they are stable fabrics that would behave how I wanted them to. Like most new to sewing, I started with quilting cottons in fun prints. Over the past six months, though, I began to admire the drapier fabrics that I had avoided after a wobbly experience with a viscose fabric early on (I donated the garment to the charity shop in the end). As my confidence with sewing built, I decided to try sewing with viscose and rayon again and wondered why I had waited for so long!
For the Wilder top that I’m sharing here, I chose a coral leopard print viscose. I was obviously attracted to the bright print and thought that it would be perfect for a short-sleeved version of the top to wear in spring and summer as it’s a lovely, breathable fabric (in the meantime, I am wearing it with a vest and cardigan!) The Wilder pattern really works well with fabrics that are lightweight and/or have some drape because it has a lot of volume. Some tips for those new to viscose: I would recommend using a walking foot for fabrics like this one that have more movement in them, if you have one. (I will confess though that, actually, mine wouldn’t work when I came to sew up this top so I used my regular foot and it handled the fabric perfectly fine!) I used a size 70 needle for this top, and also used thin pins so that they didn’t pull the fabric.
The top version of the Wilder pattern is a really quick sew (around 2-3 hours) and a great one to try if you are new to sewing with a fabric such as viscose. It has raglan sleeves (so no tricky sleeves to insert) and a topstitched centre seam down the front. The main feature (and the thing that attracted me to the pattern in the first place) is the collar and bow combination. The pattern features a gathered neckline that is drawn together by a neck-tie that fastens into a bow. A good tip for sewing the neck-tie is to use a safety pin to help pull through the fabric when turning it the right way around. The neckline opening is quite low; on this version, I sewed it closed an inch higher than the notch on the pattern. The trickiest aspect of sewing this pattern with viscose that I found is pressing it. Viscose tends to ‘wobble’ a little so I had to take my time when folding and pressing the seam allowance in half on the centre seam to create a neat finish. I’ll admit that I often rush hems (they are my least favourite things to sew); with this make, however, I took my time (and used measuring tools to help) when hemming the sleeves and hem to create an even finish. Overall, I’m really happy with the finished top. The drape is lovely and I really like the way the neckline gathers. It’s a nice, bright make for my spring/summer wardrobe!
Thanks for reading,